Responsibility as Representatives: A Need for Honest Reflection

In our roundtable on the Foreign Policysex issue” I spoke about the responsibility one has when representing, speaking or acting on behalf of one’s own community.   Among other reactions to that issue, Mona Eltahawy’s article garnered various responses from Arab women, expressing their disapproval of Eltahawy’s claim to speak on behalf of Arab women. Wherever one stands, I think the issue does raise questions on what it means for Muslims, or those who identify as being in connection with certain countries and cultures, to be speaking on behalf of other women from similar backgrounds. To be honest, I admit that I think it is something that we as writers here on Muslimah Media Watch also have to take into consideration. [Read more...]

Islamophobia in Transnational Feminist Discourses

Around 4,000 academics, scholars and activists gathered from March 16-18th at Pace University’s annual Left Forum conference. As a recent Occupy activist, I was ecstatic to come across a conference that centers on issues of capitalism and imperialism, along with panels that focus on the importance of feminist discourse to envision an alternative world. The Left Forum has been organized annually for many years and its 2012 theme –  “Occupy the System: Confronting Global Capitalism” –  was chosen in light of the uprisings in the Arab World and Europe, as well as North America’s Occupy movement, which stemmed out of Wall Street, New York.

The Occupy Movement has been criticized for being a struggle of the white middle-class   and heteronormative strata of society. As issues popped up surrounding the movement’s failure to adopt a nuanced and holistic analysis of power that would include how indigenous communities and women and people of colour in particular experience oppression at the hands of capitalism and neo-liberalism, there has been the belief that the movement doesn’t have a place for people in those groups. To some extent, I do agree. Through my experience, which I wrote about in an article for rabble.ca, the struggle of getting people (namely, men) with white heterosexual privilege to begin to unlearn their privileges became exhausting, forcing me to reconsider my position within the movement.

However, besides these frustrations, I was rejuvenated by the female panelists of colour at the Left Forum, who unapologetically called out the hypocrisies of left, progressive organizers and activists who fail to deconstruct race, gender, sexuality and class power dynamics simultaneously. One panel, entitled “Feminisms in the Time of Empire: Complicities, Contestations and Solidarities,” was composed of five women of South Asian and Arab descent who brilliantly discussed how images and discourse of gendered Muslim bodies are produced and embedded in the current capitalist and neo-liberal system. The panel was chaired by Stanford University PhD candidate and member of the Pakistan Solidarity Network, Aisha Ghani. On the panel were Saadia Toor, a teacher at CUNY university in New York; Dina Siddiqi, who teaches at the same university and whose research focuses on Islam, human rights discourses and transnational feminist politics; Maya Mikdashi, a PhD candidate at Columbia University who is also the co-founder and co-editor of Jadaliyya Ezine; Shefali Chanda of Washington State University; and Mitra Rastegar of New York University whose research centres on the racialization of Muslims and Arabs via the U.S. liberal media and activist discourses.

The panelists shared a common theme in that they discussed the ways that Islamophoba, in conjunction with constructions of gender and sexuality, have been formulated and used by secular feminist and human rights activists both in the West and in Muslim countries. Toor succinctly explained the role of the “clash of civilizations” ideology and its use to justify the war in Afghanistan along with increased militarization in Pakistan. Mikdashi examined how Islamophobia and the idea that “gender happens over ‘there’” has been used to frame the struggles of women and LGBT people in the Middle East, and in particular within the journalistic accounts of the Arab uprisings.

However, the most fascinating presentation was that of Dina Siddiqi, who talked about how the hegemonic Western images of Muslim peoples and places have been adopted by progressive feminists and activists, which incorporates these activists into the fabric of neo-liberal and capitalist forms of domination.

Siddiqi’s country of study is Bangladesh, a country that she noted doesn’t have a strategic role for American interests, but which is considered to be religiously moderate compared to its neighbor, Pakistan. Her presentation was based on three points that, although set within the context of Bangladesh, could easily be applied to any location where Muslim women live, including within the borders of North America. [Read more...]

Casting Call for Muslim Women

Have you ever dreamed of being a hijabi in couture, strutting the runway in the fashion metropolises of Milan, New York or Paris without having to unravel that scarf you hold dear?  Well, maybe you haven’t, but if you have, you’re in luck: thanks to Muslim fashion designer, Nailah Lymus, your dream may be in reach.

Nailah Lymus. Image via UNDERWRAPS.

In November, Eren wrote a great piece on Muslim and Arab women breaking onto the fashion scene, and discussed Lymus’ commitment to changing the industry. UNDERWRAPS is the first modeling agency within the mainstream fashion industry that is specifically for Muslim models. However, it is important to note, that this agency is not the only avenue that has given opportunity to models of the Islamic world. Its founder, Lymus, 28, is a clothing and accessory designer who is committed to “using her God given talent to accentuate the the natural allure of the woman.” Dressed in eclectic patterns and textures, intricately tied scarves and bold blazers, Lymus has managed to combine fashion and modesty in an industry that consistently stresses that the more the eye can see, the more beautiful one will be. A single mother, who made her debut in New York Fashion Week in 2011, and has her own accessory line Amirah Creations, believes that there is no reason that individuals who want to wear hijab should have to compromise their values to work within the industry.

“[Muslim models] come from a background where they dress Islamically appropriate, but to be in this industry and to be a model you kind of have to forfeit that,” says Lymus. “That’s why I wanted to start this agency, so you don’t have to do that. You don’t have to lose who you are to be in this business.”

Personally, I am interested to see what UNDERWRAPS will bring to the industry. In a society that is constantly fed that light/white skin, and tall and thin features, are synonymous with universal ideals of beauty, Lymus’ agency can open a space where these conceptions can be challenged. I hope that Lymus, as a woman of colour, will diversify the colour palette to the models that she signs.

There is no question that UNDERWRAPS will lure in an already-established demographic. According to the U.K-based Daily Mail, Lymus may already appeal to an audience who would be sure to buy into her brand: Emirati and Saudi women who, it’s presumed, are secret Coco Chanel, Gucci-wearing fashionistas who hide behind their abayas. However, there is a danger in assuming that women in the Middle East will be the first to jump on board and advance into the fashion industry. Currently, Lymus has signed two models who are becoming successful within the industry:Tunisian, Hanna Ben Abdesslem and Moroccan model Hindi Sahlial. Both are Arab and neither wears the scarf. What I am interested to see is whether UNDERWRAPS will become trapped in the “light is best, white features are better” mentality that penetrates in other aspects of society, and will have difficulty in opening windows of opportunity for women who wish to keep their hair hidden. As a Muslim modeling agency, will it reflect the Muslim community in all its cultures and ethnicities, including African-American, Asian, South-Asian and other backgrounds? [Read more...]