{"id":12242,"date":"2016-08-10T20:58:33","date_gmt":"2016-08-11T02:58:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/admin.patheos.com\/blogs\/holyrover\/?p=12242"},"modified":"2016-08-11T06:41:39","modified_gmt":"2016-08-11T12:41:39","slug":"in-vienna-a-tale-of-two-churches","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.patheos.com\/blogs\/holyrover\/2016\/08\/10\/in-vienna-a-tale-of-two-churches\/","title":{"rendered":"In Vienna, A Tale of Two Churches"},"content":{"rendered":"<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC \"-\/\/W3C\/\/DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional\/\/EN\" \"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/TR\/REC-html40\/loose.dtd\">\n<html><head><meta http-equiv=\"content-type\" content=\"text\/html; charset=utf-8\"><meta http-equiv=\"content-type\" content=\"text\/html; charset=utf-8\"><\/head><body><p>If you\u2019ve been fortunate enough to visit\u00a0Europe, you probably know what happens after you tour enough churches: they blend together. They\u2019re all spectacular, they all have complicated histories, and they all combine\u00a0into one blurry memory once you\u00a0try to recall\u00a0them after you return home.<\/p>\n<p>We know we should have taken\u00a0the time to truly savor each one, learning about\u00a0its architecture and history, attending a service, and meeting its members. But we didn\u2019t, because we\u2019re on holiday and there are four more churches listed in the guidebook and if we hurry we might be able to fit in one or maybe two more before dinner.<\/p>\n<p>Something like this happened to me in Vienna, where visiting churches is like eating chocolates\u2013just one more and then I\u2019ll\u00a0stop, I promise.<\/p>\n<p>But in the end, less is usually more, so today I want to tell you about just two churches: one because it was so beautiful, and the other because it seemed to speak directly\u00a0to me.<\/p>\n<p>And I\u2019m going to show you some pretty pictures, too, because words alone can\u2019t begin to do them justice.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_12255\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-12255\" style=\"width: 624px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-12255\" src=\"https:\/\/wp-media.patheos.com\/blogs\/sites\/628\/2016\/08\/800px-Karlskirche_Vienna_Front.jpg\" alt=\"Karlskirche is one of the most splendid churches in Vienna. (Wikimedia Commons image)\" width=\"624\" height=\"433\"><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-12255\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Karlskirche is one of the most splendid churches in Vienna. (Wikimedia Commons image)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The first is the Karlskirche, or Charles\u2019\u00a0Church. Charles VI, the Holy Roman Emperor, pledged to build this\u00a0church in 1713 after the ending of a plague epidemic in Vienna. He\u00a0named the structure after St. Charles Borromeo, a saint who watched over plague victims. Constructed between 1716 and 1737, it\u2019s one of the city\u2019s landmark\u00a0buildings, an exemplar of Baroque architecture.<\/p>\n<p>It has\u00a0some unusual elements for a Baroque church, however, as you can see in the picture above. Its portico resembles a Greco-Roman temple, for example, and its two tall columns are modeled after\u00a0ones built in Rome to honor the\u00a0Emperor Trajan (for some inexplicable reason they\u2019re topped by Asian-style pagodas). The architects of Karlskirche were not fans of\u00a0minimalism.<\/p>\n<p>To be honest, I\u2019m not a huge\u00a0fan of Baroque architecture. Those of us who like to hang around churches all have our favorite styles\u2013Gothic, Romanesque, or Byzantine, perhaps, or even those Scandinavian churches that look like Viking long boats. I\u2019d always considered Baroque in\u00a0my second tier of church styles.<\/p>\n<p>But after touring Karlskirche, I\u2019m reconsidering. After being in that luminous sanctuary, I can see why the interior of this\u00a0church has been called one of the greatest religious spaces in the world. It\u2019s gloriously over-the-top, filled with marble\u00a0and\u00a0gold, with sunlight streaming in from windows in its dome. I kept\u00a0expecting to see angels fluttering around inside like pigeons trying to find their way out of garage they\u2019ve flown\u00a0into.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_12248\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-12248\" style=\"width: 408px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-12248\" src=\"https:\/\/wp-media.patheos.com\/blogs\/sites\/628\/2016\/08\/IMG_3865-620x1024.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_3865\" width=\"408\" height=\"674\"><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-12248\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Baroque interior of Karlskirche directs the eye upwards, towards the light. (Lori Erickson photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>If the goal of Baroque architecture\u00a0is\u00a0to dazzle, then in Karlskirche the mission is accomplished.<\/p>\n<p>I also had a laugh-out-loud moment in Karlskirche\u00a0that drew glances from my fellow\u00a0tourists. We had taken\u00a0a little elevator to the top of the church, the better to see the frescoes that adorn the interior of its dome. In the midst of all\u00a0the usual angels, cherubs, saints, apostles, and members of the Holy Family was this image:<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_12249\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-12249\" style=\"width: 616px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-12249\" src=\"https:\/\/wp-media.patheos.com\/blogs\/sites\/628\/2016\/08\/IMG_3871-1-1024x614.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_3871 (1)\" width=\"616\" height=\"369\"><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-12249\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A fresco in Karlskirche shows Martin Luther being banished to Hell. (Lori Erickson photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>There\u2019s Martin Luther, founder of my home denomination of the Lutherans, being banished from heaven. An avenging angel is setting his books on fire and there\u2019s a nasty looking demon being sent to Hell as well (pretty clearly he and Martin are best friends). I\u2019m not sure who\u00a0the woman with the\u00a0mask is, but she\u2019s certainly\u00a0up to no good.\u00a0Don\u2019t you just love it when church politics get immortalized\u00a0in high art?\u00a0I know it\u2019s\u00a0mean-spirited, but it\u2019s also quite funny.<\/p>\n<p>OK, here\u2019s another fresco, just to show you an example of the\u00a0non-snarky pictures there. There were a <em>lot<\/em> of happy angels in this church.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_12257\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-12257\" style=\"width: 674px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-12257\" src=\"https:\/\/wp-media.patheos.com\/blogs\/sites\/628\/2016\/08\/IMG_3869-1024x542.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_3869\" width=\"674\" height=\"357\"><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-12257\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fresco inside Karlskirche in Vienna (Lori Erickson photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>But of all the churches we visited in Vienna, my favorite was the Griechische Kirche, also known as the\u00a0Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church. Built in the 19th century\u00a0in a Byzantine Revival design, its sanctuary is small and intimate. Glorious icons fill\u00a0almost every inch of its walls.<\/p>\n<p>Part of what I loved about this church is that it isn\u2019t heavily visited, so we had it to ourselves except for a caretaker who sat near the door. She welcomed us warmly and said that we were welcome to stay as long as we wanted. I sat for a long time in that church, gazing up at the icons all around, mesmerized by their beauty.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_12250\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-12250\" style=\"width: 467px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-12250\" src=\"https:\/\/wp-media.patheos.com\/blogs\/sites\/628\/2016\/08\/IMG_4007-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_4007\" width=\"467\" height=\"622\"><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-12250\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">An icon in the Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church in Vienna (Lori Erickson photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_12254\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-12254\" style=\"width: 540px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-12254\" src=\"https:\/\/wp-media.patheos.com\/blogs\/sites\/628\/2016\/08\/IMG_4005-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_4005\" width=\"540\" height=\"720\"><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-12254\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Halos glow in an icon in Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church in Vienna (Lori Erickson photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I know I should tell you more about the church\u2019s history, and who attends there, and the story of the artists who created the icons. But by that time in our Vienna tour I was a little\u00a0burned out on taking notes and collecting brochures. Sometimes the best way to do research is simply to sit. So that\u2019s\u00a0what I did in that church.<\/p>\n<p>As I did so, I realized once again that most places aren\u2019t holy because of their\u00a0history, or their political or theological stances, or even the beauty of their art. Instead they are sacred because they speak to us through some mysterious language\u00a0of the spirit, one that we learn not through study, but through osmosis.<\/p>\n<p>The Holy Trinity Church\u00a0was\u00a0a good place to sit in silence. And isn\u2019t that perhaps the most valuable thing holy places offer us?<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_12251\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-12251\" style=\"width: 745px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-12251\" src=\"https:\/\/wp-media.patheos.com\/blogs\/sites\/628\/2016\/08\/IMG_4010-1024x642.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_4010\" width=\"745\" height=\"467\"><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-12251\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church in Vienna was a good place simply to sit, look, and be. (Bob Sessions photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<hr>\n<p><em>Stay in touch! Like Holy Rover on Facebook:<\/em><\/p>\n<div class=\"fb-page\" data-href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/holyrover\" data-width=\"500\" data-small-header=\"false\" data-adapt-container-width=\"true\" data-hide-cover=\"false\" data-show-facepile=\"true\" data-show-posts=\"false\">\n<div class=\"fb-xfbml-parse-ignore\">\n<blockquote cite=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/holyrover\"><p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/holyrover\" class=\" decorated-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">Holy Rover<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/body><\/html>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Two Vienna churches, Karlskirche and the Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church, gave me insights into the power of holy places to move and inspire us<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2582,"featured_media":12250,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[13,112,158],"tags":[946,944,945,947,431,943,940],"class_list":["post-12242","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-art-and-spirituality","category-orthodox","category-virgin-mary","tag-churches-in-vienna","tag-greek-orthodox-church-in-vienna","tag-holy-sites-in-vienna","tag-holy-trinity-greek-orthodox-church-in-vienna","tag-icons-2","tag-karlskirche","tag-vienna"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v21.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>In Vienna, A Tale of Two Churches<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Two Vienna churches, Karlskirche and the Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church, gave me insights into the power of holy places to move and inspire us\" \/>\n<meta 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