![\"A](\"https:\/\/wp-media.patheos.com\/blogs\/sites\/2337\/2025\/01\/lead-cropped-2.png\")
Every time followers of Sikhism pray, they beseech God to let them freely visit their gurdwaras in Pakistan. For 77 years, they have been separated from their most revered shrines left behind after India\u2019s partition. The relentless animosity between the two neighbors made it almost impossible for Sikh pilgrims to pay homage even at the birthplace of Shri Guru Nanak Dev, the founder of their faith.<\/span><\/p>\n The barriers are coming down slowly, as found by a group of 135 pilgrims, mostly Sikhs, from New York. They fulfilled their lifetime wish of visiting historic gurdwaras in northern Pakistan, including Nankana Sahib at Guru Nanak\u2019s birthplace. Their sentimental trip from November 21-30, 2024 was timed with Guru Nanak\u2019s 556th birth anniversary observed on November 15.<\/span><\/p>\n The pilgrim group, called <\/span>jatha,<\/span><\/i> also prayed at Gurdwara Darbar Sahib Kartarpur in Punjab, where Guru Nanak spent the last 18 years of his life. Just three miles from the border, this is the only Pak gurdwara where visa-free entry from India is allowed following the opening of the Kartarpur Corridor<\/a> five years ago.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n The large New York <\/span>jatha<\/span><\/i> was led by Gary Singh Sikka, President of the American Punjabi Society<\/a> (APS). Giving details of the arrangements for Guru Dham Yatra, he said, \u201cTo bring this important pilgrimage under a protocol, we met Pakistan\u2019s Ambassador in Washington, DC, six months ago. He assured us a warm welcome awaits us when we land there.\u201d Reinforced by other VIP contacts, that assurance helped the trip organizers secure the necessary permits and cooperation from Pakistan authorities.<\/span><\/p>\n Gary Sikka and others in the pilgrim group talk effusively about receiving a warm welcome where they went in Pakistan, traditionally with garlands and showering them with flower petals. They saw good upkeep of the gurdwaras, even though the number of Sikhs in the Muslim country is now a minuscule 35,000 compared to two million before 1947 when the community opted to move to India.<\/span><\/p>\n The New York <\/span>jatha<\/span><\/i> received the happy news of a changing protocol from Ramesh Singh Arora<\/a>, Punjab Minister for Minority Affairs who visited them in their hotel in Lahore. Arora also heads the Pakistan Gurdwara Prabandhak Committee that manages over 200 gurdwaras controlled by the central government. Arora said that from November 2024, restrictions have been lifted on the movement of Sikh pilgrims from 126 countries \u2013 but not India. American, Canadian, and British passport holders can even get a free visa on arrival. He added that 50,000 pilgrims visited Pakistan to celebrate Guru Nanak\u2019s birth anniversary.<\/span><\/p>\n According to Sikka, the American Punjabi Society pleaded with Minister Arora to extend the restriction-free pilgrim visa to India, home to 24-26 million of the world\u2019s 30 million Sikhs. Arora promised to take their appeal to the government in Islamabad.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n On arrival in Lahore, the APS group was personally greeted by Syed Qamar Raza<\/a><\/span>, Chairman of the Overseas Pakistani Foundation and a cabinet-rank minister of Pakistan. As he had promised, the pilgrim group was provided with security and extended due reception and protocol throughout.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Today, the Golden Temple (Sri Harmandir Sahib) in Amritsar, India, is known as Sikhism\u2019s most pee-eminent spiritual site. It was developed by the fourth and fifth of the 10 Sikh gurus. The four main gurdwaras associated with Guru Nanak\u2019s life are in Pakistan, and the New York group prayed at all of them and some others, too.<\/span><\/p>\n Guru Nanak attracted followers, both Hindu and Muslim. The Nankana Sahib, formally named Gurdwara Janam Asthan, about 60 miles from Lahore, is a shining example of intercommunal solidarity. Rai Bular Bhatti, a Muslim zamindar who was one of the first followers of Guru Nanak, donated a huge parcel of agricultural land for the shrine.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n After traveling far and wide to spread his message of God\u2019s oneness and equality among all humans, Guru Nanak settled at Kartarpur in Punjab. Here, he tilled land, lived a householder\u2019s life, and expounded three teachings now central to Sikhism. These are <\/span>Naam<\/span><\/i> Japna<\/span><\/i> (remember God and his name\u2014Waheguru), K<\/span>irat Karni<\/span><\/i> (work hard and earn an honest living), and <\/span>Vand Chhakna<\/span><\/i> (sharing what you have with others, especially the needy).\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n The <\/span>jatha <\/span><\/i>also visited two other prominent gurdwaras named Sacha Sauda and Panja Sahib.<\/span><\/p>\n Sacha Sauda (literally, fair bargain) refers to a young Nanak receiving 20 rupees from his father to do trading but instead spent it on food for mendicants he came across. This was the first sign that he was destined for a saintly life. That incident is how the Sikh tradition of <\/span>langar <\/span><\/i>(community kitchen) was born. Sikka recalls that the <\/span>langar <\/span><\/i>food at the Sacha Sada gurdwara, 57 miles from Lahore, was the most delicious ever.<\/span><\/p>\n After a long road trip north, the group visited Panja Sahib Gurdwara in Hassan Abdal, near Islamabad. A bolder there is believed to have Guru Nanak\u2019s handprint (<\/span>Panja<\/span><\/i>). According to the legend, a local saint refused to give water to Guru Nanak and his allies, so the Guru removed a boulder, and water gushed out from behind.<\/span><\/p>\n The group stayed in Lahore for 6 days, two more than planned, because a pro-Imran Khan protest made their travel to Islamabad difficult. This gave them a chance to visit the martyrs\u2019 gurdwaras commemorating the sacrifices made by Sikh gurus and others while withstanding pressure to convert to Islam.<\/span><\/p>\n The group also visited the fort of Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1780 \u2013 1839), who ruled for 40 years from Lahore and expanded his empire to Kashmir and Afghanistan.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Paul S. Bindra, APS Vice President who runs two Nike stores, was most impressed by the majestic vista and pious atmosphere of Kartarpur Sahib gurdwara. He was moved by the sight of Muslims and Hindus joining Sikhs in prayerful worship there. Following the love the locals showered on them, he said, \u201cWe never felt we were in an alien country. The culture there is exactly as in India\u2019s Punjab.\u201d Indeed, India and Pakistan may be arch-enemies, but the people of the two siblings do not harbor hard feelings.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Balbir Singh Sidana, who also owns sneakers stores, expressed his gratitude to Sikka via WhatsApp: \u201cAfter 66 years of my life, I got this golden opportunity to visit Pakistan with my brothers and sisters. This flawless and unforgettable yatra became possible with your contacts, support, and plan to take 135 people together.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n At least 15 Hindus were in the pilgrim\u2019s group. They also prayed at Hindu temples near Lahore. Gobind Bathija, founder of the Asa Mai Hindu temple in Hicksville, NY, said that many Hindus, particularly from the Sindh region and Afghanistan, worship with Sikhs. The Hinglaj Mata temple in Balochistan is known to be one of the 51<\/span> Shakti Peethas<\/span><\/a>, the second one is<\/span> Sharada Peeth<\/span><\/a> in Pakistan-controlled Kashmir.<\/span><\/p>\n Many <\/span>jatha <\/span><\/i>members got sentimental as they visited places associated with their parents forced by India\u2019s Partition to flee, leaving their all behind. Many had grown up hearing horror stories of the communal bloodbath amid the largest migration in human history.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Jyoti Bhatia Gupta sent an emotional message to Gary Sikka, \u201cI could experience Sialkot, my <\/span>dadke<\/span><\/i> (grandparents\u2019 place).\u201d Raj Sharma visited his ancestral home in Gujranwala and the entire village welcomed him. Ajayvir S. Sondhi was surprised to find the lock on the empty house his grandfather had left intact in Rawalpindi.<\/span><\/p>\n![\"a](\"https:\/\/wp-media.patheos.com\/blogs\/sites\/2337\/2025\/01\/raza-1.jpg\")
Diplomatic breakthrough for Sikh pilgrims<\/b><\/h3>\n
![\"a](\"https:\/\/wp-media.patheos.com\/blogs\/sites\/2337\/2025\/01\/Bathija-kartarpur-2.jpg\")
4 gurdwaras commemorating Guru Nanak\u2019s life<\/b><\/h3>\n
![\"Garlanded](\"https:\/\/wp-media.patheos.com\/blogs\/sites\/2337\/2025\/01\/Lead-gurdwaras-panja-sahib-Copy-e1737169150639.jpg\")
Pilgrims feel blessed<\/b><\/h3>\n
![\"large](\"https:\/\/wp-media.patheos.com\/blogs\/sites\/2337\/2025\/01\/sacha-sauda-gurdwara-with-head-priest.jpg\")
Emotional visits to ancestral homes<\/b><\/h3>\n