Across the Tiber, sandwiched between other buildings, is the site of the oldest Christian church tolerated by the early Romans. Built in the early 3rd century, Santa Maria in Trastevere is very humble in comparison to some of the other churches we saw. It is in a quiet Roman neighborhood, and the present church was built in the 12th century, on the site of the original. The church was crowded, but people were very reverent as they looked at all the Byzantine mosaics and frescos. I didn't want to disturb anyone by Ed describing the art to me, so I just sat to wait for him.
In this church, I hadn't expected to sense much of what it looked like, so I thought about the fact that I was where the original church on this spot was built less than 200 years after Christ. Then a cantor began to sing a Latin chant a cappella! This hauntingly beautiful chant lent to the liturgy a medieval feel, and was another gift God gave me so that I could "see" this ancient church!
This was a trip that we never wanted to end!
Ad-Free & Subscriber Log-In