So we’re camped in what is most likely the best campground in the entire country, a desert oasis in the middle of Capitol Reef National Park in Utah. We’re surrounded by stark canyons and eroded buttes, a landscape desperately dry and hot. But in the little valley where we’re camped there runs a perennial river, the Fremont, and the grass grows lush and green and the cottonwood trees tall. A herd of mule deer ambles through the valley, completely fearless.... Read more