I have only been here less than 24 hours, but I already feel that Galilee makes a different sort of impression, at least on a modern Christian of the liberal and/or Protestant variety. Jerusalem exemplifies the overlay of subsequent history in the very layer upon layer of city, stone, and soil. Its churches cover over any historical traces with edifices and icons that symbolize the obscuring of history by subsequent dogma, piety and theology. It testifies clearly to the need... Read more
I was excited when I saw that the route to Tiberias, and to Afula where I would be meeting Eldad Keynan who kindly agreed to show me around the Galilee, was by way of Megiddo, even though not all services stop there. The bus took me straight through the plain of Megiddo. It seems more agricultural than apocalyptic, and while one can understand how this would have seemed an idea spot for a battle of the ancient sort, involving rows... Read more
I have been reflecting on the notion that the Temple Mount is holy from a Jewish perspective, and thought I would offer some thoughts on the subject, as someone who visited the site yesterday in spite of the rabbinic warning I mentioned in my previous post. Even from an insider’s Jewish theological perspective, it seems that it would be problematic to regard the Temple Mount as an inappropriate place to go. First, for there to have been a first and... Read more
Today was my last full day in Jerusalem, and I managed to squeeze into it the things that I was still hoping to do. I went first to the Yad Vashem Holocaust Museum. The horror of what was done is communicated personally (survivors’ testimonies in video form), poignantly (shoes, photos, personal effects) and graphically (video clips of naked emaciated corpses being bulldozed). Even someone familiar with the history of World War II is still bound to come away with a... Read more
What can one do when in Jerusalem on the Sabbath, assuming that one is not observing the sabbath oneself (or at least not strictly)? A trip to the Dead Sea is an option. I took a tour through Mike’s Center, which I had already heard of and was considering, and just happened across yesterday when I was leaving the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. The first stop was Qumran, and although there was an introductory film, it jumped right in... Read more
“One expects the central shrine of Christendom to stand out in majestic isolation, but anonymous buildings cling to it like barnacles. One looks for numinous light, but it is dark and cramped. One hopes for peace, but the ear is assailed by a cacophony of warring chants. One desires holiness, only to encounter a jealous possessiveness: the six groups of occupants – Latin Catholics, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox, Syrians, Copts, Ethiopians – watch one another suspiciously for any infringement of... Read more
Today I managed to squeeze a substantial portion of the Old City into the day. I began with the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. The edicule was barricaded off, but I may pay another visit to the church to see if I can get closer. The church is magnificent in many respects, and if you ever go there, one piece of advice I would give you is to not be afraid to go up or down steps that you see.... Read more
Scheduling issues meant that I headed straight to a tour of the West Bank my first day in Jerusalem. Fortunately I was able to at least see the Old City briefly and step inside it’s gates. Jerusalem can seem like an ordinary Israeli city. It is much more conservative by far than Tel Aviv, in terms of how people dress and overall religiosity. But wandering it’s streets, everything can seem relatively ordinary, as you wonder whether the historic Jerusalem you... Read more
Arriving in Tel Aviv airport provides a wonderful gateway to the country. The airport is modern, lavish and sophisticated, but ancient mosaics with Greek inscriptions also greet you. The situating of ancient and modern not merely side by side but surrounding each other. Then you get outside, and find out what the 25 degrees Celsius temperature at midnight feels like. But I am glad I arrived as late as I did. Seeing how many young people are on the streets... Read more
OK, although it proves I’m a nerd (as if any of you had any doubts) I will come right out and admit it: ever since I was a child and first learned about the longest word in the dictionary I have been eagerly awaiting an opportunity to use it in a sentence. I suppose that is the silver lining I can find in the religious right – they have given me the opportunity to use the word. Establishment, as those... Read more
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