Istanbul is the kind of place in which the past often seems to be just as real, or even more real, than the present. Sometimes this shows up in the headlines. For example, back in 2004 I visited the center of Eastern Orthodox life there and learned the history of the stark, black, closed gate out front. At that time, I wrote this for Scripps Howard: ISTANBUL — There are two front gates into the walled compound that protects the... Read more