New York Sikhs make sentimental pilgrimage to Pak gurdwaras

New York Sikhs make sentimental pilgrimage to Pak gurdwaras January 17, 2025

A Sikh templ with inset pic of a man being felicitated
The New York group was impressed by the majestic Nankana Sahib gurdwara at Guru Nanak’s birthplace in Pakistan. (inset) Gary Sikka, President of the American Punjabi Society, was felicitated as organizer of the pilgrimage.

Every time followers of Sikhism pray, they beseech God to let them freely visit their gurdwaras in Pakistan. For 77 years, they have been separated from their most revered shrines left behind after India’s partition. The relentless animosity between the two neighbors made it almost impossible for Sikh pilgrims to pay homage even at the birthplace of Shri Guru Nanak Dev, the founder of their faith.

The barriers are coming down slowly, as found by a group of 135 pilgrims, mostly Sikhs, from New York. They fulfilled their lifetime wish of visiting historic gurdwaras in northern Pakistan, including Nankana Sahib at Guru Nanak’s birthplace. Their sentimental trip from November 21-30, 2024 was timed with Guru Nanak’s 556th birth anniversary observed on November 15.

The pilgrim group, called jatha, also prayed at Gurdwara Darbar Sahib Kartarpur in Punjab, where Guru Nanak spent the last 18 years of his life. Just three miles from the border, this is the only Pak gurdwara where visa-free entry from India is allowed following the opening of the Kartarpur Corridor five years ago.  

The large New York jatha was led by Gary Singh Sikka, President of the American Punjabi Society (APS). Giving details of the arrangements for Guru Dham Yatra, he said, “To bring this important pilgrimage under a protocol, we met Pakistan’s Ambassador in Washington, DC, six months ago. He assured us a warm welcome awaits us when we land there.” Reinforced by other VIP contacts, that assurance helped the trip organizers secure the necessary permits and cooperation from Pakistan authorities.

Gary Sikka and others in the pilgrim group talk effusively about receiving a warm welcome where they went in Pakistan, traditionally with garlands and showering them with flower petals. They saw good upkeep of the gurdwaras, even though the number of Sikhs in the Muslim country is now a minuscule 35,000 compared to two million before 1947 when the community opted to move to India.

a group of pilgrims with a Pakistani official
Syed Qamar Raza, a cabinet rank minister of Pakistan, assured the American Punjabi Society group due protocol and security.

Diplomatic breakthrough for Sikh pilgrims

The New York jatha received the happy news of a changing protocol from Ramesh Singh Arora, Punjab Minister for Minority Affairs who visited them in their hotel in Lahore. Arora also heads the Pakistan Gurdwara Prabandhak Committee that manages over 200 gurdwaras controlled by the central government. Arora said that from November 2024, restrictions have been lifted on the movement of Sikh pilgrims from 126 countries – but not India. American, Canadian, and British passport holders can even get a free visa on arrival. He added that 50,000 pilgrims visited Pakistan to celebrate Guru Nanak’s birth anniversary.

According to Sikka, the American Punjabi Society pleaded with Minister Arora to extend the restriction-free pilgrim visa to India, home to 24-26 million of the world’s 30 million Sikhs. Arora promised to take their appeal to the government in Islamabad.  

On arrival in Lahore, the APS group was personally greeted by Syed Qamar Raza, Chairman of the Overseas Pakistani Foundation and a cabinet-rank minister of Pakistan. As he had promised, the pilgrim group was provided with security and extended due reception and protocol throughout.          

 

a couple posing in frotn of a temple
Gobind Bathija, founder of a Hindu temple on Long Island, and his wife, posing in front of the Kartarpur Sahib gurdwara, were part of the pilgrim group.

4 gurdwaras commemorating Guru Nanak’s life

Today, the Golden Temple (Sri Harmandir Sahib) in Amritsar, India, is known as Sikhism’s most pee-eminent spiritual site. It was developed by the fourth and fifth of the 10 Sikh gurus. The four main gurdwaras associated with Guru Nanak’s life are in Pakistan, and the New York group prayed at all of them and some others, too.

Guru Nanak attracted followers, both Hindu and Muslim. The Nankana Sahib, formally named Gurdwara Janam Asthan, about 60 miles from Lahore, is a shining example of intercommunal solidarity. Rai Bular Bhatti, a Muslim zamindar who was one of the first followers of Guru Nanak, donated a huge parcel of agricultural land for the shrine.  

After traveling far and wide to spread his message of God’s oneness and equality among all humans, Guru Nanak settled at Kartarpur in Punjab. Here, he tilled land, lived a householder’s life, and expounded three teachings now central to Sikhism. These are Naam Japna (remember God and his name—Waheguru), Kirat Karni (work hard and earn an honest living), and Vand Chhakna (sharing what you have with others, especially the needy).  

The jatha also visited two other prominent gurdwaras named Sacha Sauda and Panja Sahib.

Sacha Sauda (literally, fair bargain) refers to a young Nanak receiving 20 rupees from his father to do trading but instead spent it on food for mendicants he came across. This was the first sign that he was destined for a saintly life. That incident is how the Sikh tradition of langar (community kitchen) was born. Sikka recalls that the langar food at the Sacha Sada gurdwara, 57 miles from Lahore, was the most delicious ever.

After a long road trip north, the group visited Panja Sahib Gurdwara in Hassan Abdal, near Islamabad. A bolder there is believed to have Guru Nanak’s handprint (Panja). According to the legend, a local saint refused to give water to Guru Nanak and his allies, so the Guru removed a boulder, and water gushed out from behind.

The group stayed in Lahore for 6 days, two more than planned, because a pro-Imran Khan protest made their travel to Islamabad difficult. This gave them a chance to visit the martyrs’ gurdwaras commemorating the sacrifices made by Sikh gurus and others while withstanding pressure to convert to Islam.

The group also visited the fort of Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1780 – 1839), who ruled for 40 years from Lahore and expanded his empire to Kashmir and Afghanistan.   

Garlanded people in front of a Sikh temple
Pilgrims group including Gary S. Sikka (2nd from right) visited Panja Sahib gurdwara near Islamabad.

Pilgrims feel blessed

Paul S. Bindra, APS Vice President who runs two Nike stores, was most impressed by the majestic vista and pious atmosphere of Kartarpur Sahib gurdwara. He was moved by the sight of Muslims and Hindus joining Sikhs in prayerful worship there. Following the love the locals showered on them, he said, “We never felt we were in an alien country. The culture there is exactly as in India’s Punjab.” Indeed, India and Pakistan may be arch-enemies, but the people of the two siblings do not harbor hard feelings.        

Balbir Singh Sidana, who also owns sneakers stores, expressed his gratitude to Sikka via WhatsApp: “After 66 years of my life, I got this golden opportunity to visit Pakistan with my brothers and sisters. This flawless and unforgettable yatra became possible with your contacts, support, and plan to take 135 people together.”

At least 15 Hindus were in the pilgrim’s group. They also prayed at Hindu temples near Lahore. Gobind Bathija, founder of the Asa Mai Hindu temple in Hicksville, NY, said that many Hindus, particularly from the Sindh region and Afghanistan, worship with Sikhs. The Hinglaj Mata temple in Balochistan is known to be one of the 51 Shakti Peethas, the second one is Sharada Peeth in Pakistan-controlled Kashmir.

large number of people in front of a temple and bouquet presentation
The pilgrims group with the head priest of Sacha Sauda gurdwara in Pakistan. (Photos courtesy American Punjabi Society)

Emotional visits to ancestral homes

Many jatha members got sentimental as they visited places associated with their parents forced by India’s Partition to flee, leaving their all behind. Many had grown up hearing horror stories of the communal bloodbath amid the largest migration in human history.  

Jyoti Bhatia Gupta sent an emotional message to Gary Sikka, “I could experience Sialkot, my dadke (grandparents’ place).” Raj Sharma visited his ancestral home in Gujranwala and the entire village welcomed him. Ajayvir S. Sondhi was surprised to find the lock on the empty house his grandfather had left intact in Rawalpindi.

Gary Sikka recalls that his late father would wistfully talk of his hometown near Lyallpur (now Faisalabad), which he could not visit because of visa restrictions. “While planning this trip, I thought of seniors like my father who have long wanted to visit Pakistan but have been unable to.”   

Gary Sikka also took an APS delegation to the Lahore Chamber of Commerce, headed by Mian Abuzar Shad, to explore business collaborations.

The returning jatha realized their impression of Pakistan as poor and underdeveloped was wrong. One evening, they dined at a restaurant and were amazed that it could seat 5,000. They also found shopping areas clean. However, noting the need for better amenities in gurdwara washrooms, the APS group has offered financial support.    

While most of the group returned to New York, some crossed the Wagah border by road to India to continue their pilgrimage.

Enthused by the success of the first Guru Dham Yatra and new demand, Gary Sikka, a serial restaurateur currently running Pearl Banquet and Mint restaurant on Long Island, has started planning the next pilgrimage to Pakistan later this year.

The American Punjabi Society formed over a year ago on Long Island, held several programs in 2024, including a blood donation camp, a lung cancer awareness event, and a kabaddi sports tournament. Their next planned event is Vaisakhi in April, celebrating the birth of Khalsa in 1699 when the 10th and last Guru Gobind Singh gave Sikhs a striking identity.

Contact: www.americanpunjabisociety.com, email: [email protected]

Read another story by Parveen Chopra on Lotus Pond about the Sikh community in America: https://www.patheos.com/blogs/lotuspond/2024/11/guru-nanaks-message-of-oneness-is-for-all-humanity/

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