A Ministry Of Food

(Note: I wanted to publish this last Friday, the last Friday of Lent, but, well, I forgot. So there you go.)

Sorry America, but someone has to tell you: you have a food problem.

I blame Protestantism. Yes, I blame everything on Protestantism, but there’s a reason. In his excellent food book An Economist Gets Lunch, Tyler Cowen recounts how the Prohibition destroyed America’s taste buds. No good wine, no good restaurants. Prohibition caused America’s chefs to emigrate. Then the Depression, and then World War II rationing: by the ’50s, an entire generation of Americans had lived (and grown up) eating only crap. Food is a matter of culture, and culture is a matter of education.

Puritanism is repressive, and repression leads to bad, bad things (Catholics are called to the virtue of temperance, seen here aptly demonstrated by then-Cardinal Ratzinger). Its Puritan history gave America a repressive sexual culture, which now has exploded into the bizarre luridness we now know.

Similarly, America’s lack of food culture has led to this apocalyptic explosion, with the cult of junk food and the equally idolatrous equal-and-opposite reaction of the cult of the “healthy” body; obesity and eating disorders. Family meals have become a thing of the past, with predictably dire consequences for family robustness and education.

Meanwhile, food is a Catholic value. It’s not a coincidence that the two historic cradles of Western Catholicism, Italy and France, are the countries best known for the succulence of their food. Catholicism is the religion of the God who gives Himself to us as food and drink. We are not souls with bodies, we are ensouled bodies, and our biological functions have a special heavenly meaning. Jesus begins his earthly ministry with a meal (Cana) and ends it with a meal (Last Supper). Once he is raised from the dead, he is raised bodily, and he reveals himself through the breaking of the bread to the Emmaus pilgrims, as in this beautiful painting by Caravaggio (as always with Caravaggio, the focus is on the light, and the light is on the table, which has become an altar). Union with God is described as a party with food (Prodigal Son), an image replete with eschatological meaning, pointing to the Wedding Feast of the Lamb of Revelation. In the early Church, each Mass was followed by an agape feast in which the faithful took part. In the Church, the history of monasticism is inseparable from the history of food–they planted the vines, they invented agricultural innovations, they made cheeses, and beer, and so forth. There ought to be a “Catholic difference” in terms of how Catholics relate to food–and yes, in many cases, there already is, and has always been (shoutout to Italian Catholics, and African American Catholics, and Latino Catholics!). We can evangelize through food–in fact, we always have.

So, not all is lost, America! For in the desolate landscape of your food culture, many green shoots are popping up (and, yes, it’s never been a completely desolate landscape, with many subtraditions, like Southern cuisine or soul food, having been vibrant all the while). It’s actually quite the little renaissance. In many ways, the richness of France’s food tradition has made it sleepy. We don’t value what we have. As Cowen points out, America’s immigrants and its culture’s talent for integrating immigrants has led to a vibrancy of ethnic cuisine. America has always integrated the best of its immigrant cultures–for many generations now, pizza has been as American as apple pie. And there is now a vibrant American food subculture, which recognizes the value of good produce, preparation, taste, and so on.

Is this an unalloyed good? As Christians, we must answer: no. Because there’s one problem with this new food subculture, which is that it’s become a class marker. In America, obsesity is pretty thoroughly connected with class, and our overclass has glommed on food culture as a way to differentiate itself from its well-off brethren. In America now, to care about food is to say “I am not one of these people.” For the Church to simply lean into this trend unquestioningly would be to reinforce class narrative and class privilege, it would be to move away from, rather than closer to, the solidarity with the poor that the Gospel calls us to. It’s not enough to say “Take the time to make home-cooked meals”–the single mother working three jobs will say with good reason, “What time?”

For those who don’t pay attention to the shenanigans of high finance (God bless you), you may not have heard about the nutritional supplement company Herbalife. Herbalife is a multi-level marketing company, meaning it makes money not just through selling its supplements, but through turning its own customers into salespeople (and those salespeople turning customers into salespeople). A hedge fund manager argued that Herbalife is not just a multi-level marketing company, but a pyramid scheme, and therefore doomed to fail, and placed a big bet against the company. Why am I talking about that? Well, one reason why this hedge fund manager thought Herbalife was a pyramid scheme was that Herbalife sold most of its products to its salespeople, rather than to other customers (this would mean that the salesmen were trying to earn money by recruiting other salesmen, and so on down the chain, rather than selling product). Another hedge fund manager with a different view argued that this was missing the point: Herbalife is not so much a food supplements company rather than a support group for people struggling with weight problems masquerading as a supplements company. This isn’t a paragraph about Herbalife (and I’m certainly not giving stock market advice!), but a paragraph to highlight that this is a real problem that countless people struggle with, and that often the way to struggle with some problem is with a support group and a support network. (Note: the group Herbalife perhaps targets most extensively is Latinos, “ie” Catholics.)

With all these ideas in mind, here are some ideas for a ministry of food, if enterprising Catholics want to start it (and if there are already things going on (as I’m sure there are), tell me). Let’s call it the Order of Saint Lawrence, patron saint of cooks, or the Agape Confraternity, or something.

  • Coaching. I mean, this is the place to start. Teach people to cook. The thing about cooking is that (kind of like the liturgy, to think about it) it can be intimidating for the uninitiated, but once you have the grasp of the basics, it becomes really easy. In cooking, once you grok a handful of basic techniques and ingredients, you can do a massive number of things. One inspiration here is Jamie Oliver’s various initiatives to teach working-class people in Britain to cook. A particular focus is that “cheap”, “healthy” and “easy” doesn’t have to be a “pick two” thing. In particular, there are products that we buy from the store that we can do at home and when we do so it is cheaper, healthier and better. I am thinking here of bread (no-knead bread is sooo easy!) and yogurt. My wife makes yogurt; it is so easy, and before she’d started making it I had always hated yogurt, but that’s just because I’d never tried real yogurt. Another area of focus should be to transcend the tension in our busy lives that we feel between cooking and spending time with our families, by involving children in the cooking. My daughter loves to cook with me. I’ve been known to make our breakfast crepes with her sitting on my shoulders.
  • Family night and devotions. One devotion that might be promoted by our “Order of Saint Lawrence” would be weekly family dinners, with no distractions (TV, electronic devices) where the entire family cooks and eats dinner together (and prays), and maybe plays board games or whatever (yeah, I totally stole that from the Mormons!). Another devotion might be special grace prayers for meals.
  • Fasting. Fasting is a wonderful devotion and part of the spiritual life that we’ve lost track of in most of the Western Church. Fasting is poetry! We could rip-off the Orthodox fasting practices. Or, at the very least, recover fasting not just during Lent but in the run-up to the major feasts.
  • Mutual support. This is where the Herbalife part comes in. A lot of people who are particularly struggling with food/weight problems to the extent that it is an unhealthy part of their life or even an addiction need mutual support, and a support network, and support groups.
  • Farming. The food ecosystem in America is rotten top-to-bottom. The farm subsidy system promotes dependency and distortion in the agricultural sector, and promote the manufacture and subsidization of the most unhealthy foods. Environmental sustainability is observed most often in the breach. On the other end of the spectrum, we have pseudoscience leading to people agitating against GMOs and ascribing magical properties to “organic” food. Good food requires good produce, and this is very hard to do in the US. Because of the system, good produce in the US is very rare and/or expensive. (“Shop at Whole Foods!” is not an option for the poor, preferential or otherwise.) You don’t have to be a nutty environmentalist to recognize that animals are part of God’s good creation that we have received stewardship over and that inhumane treatment of animals on a vast scale is, at the very least, problematic. So the thing to do is to vertically integrate. Go back to the land. We really should do what these nuns are doing, except for all the heresy. (Seriously, it’s a great story, read it, and try not to rage too much at the heresy. There is good there, nonetheless.) Catholic religious have been farming amazing food (and innovating) for literally 1500 years. And we can really innovate. We need to start urban farms so the product can be close to the “customer”–and so that they can be involved in farming, and learn about it. We can build shipping container farms (and–why not–vertical farms).
  • Selling. As I said, we should integrate the value chain. That means growing, and seling (just like Walter White). Sell foods through co-ops, create sustainable jobs in the neighborhood. Create CSAs, where people pay a subscription and get a box of seasonable produce every week. Create a brand for St Lawrence foods (cheese, wine, beer…) and sell that to yuppies like me so you can use the money for good works. Open restaurants to create apprenticeships and vocations for urban/working class kids.
  • Schools. Hey, so, I hear the Catholic Church has, like, schools? Maybe the students there would like to eat healthy foods. Maybe they’d like classes on having a healthy, integrated relationship with food. Maybe their parents would. Maybe they’d enjoy day trips to the farm to see what real food looks like and how it’s made.
  • Education and advocacy. Food policy in America is an ungodly mess. Farm subsidies (pork for pork!), especially going to unhealthy foods. Overregulation (gimme that raw milk! Also read this tragic story.) We need political advocacy. But most of all we need cultural education. As I said, there are green shoots, but overall American food culture really brings home Clémenceau’s aphorism that the US are the only culture that went from barbarism to decadence without the usual interval of civilization.

There are probably even more things to do. But this is just a handful of suggestions to start.

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  • http://www.stoptheamwaytoolscam.wordpress.com/ tex2

    Herbalife operates very similar to Amway, the world’s largest MLM scam: http://www.stoptheamwaytoolscam.wordpress.com

  • Paul S.

    Great article! I love to cook & the “order of St. Lawrence” sounds perfect!

    • http://pegobry.tumblr.com/ Pascal-Emmanuel Gobry

      :)

  • mochalite

    Well-thought and well-written, as usual. I like your proposed solutions. I have little trouble accepting your indictment of USA federal food policies, and even of our national approach to food, but I think you should paint with a significantly narrower brush. A lot of us decadent barbarians have never lost the joy of home cooking and family meals (not just Southerners … I live here, but I pass on a lot of what they call home cooking.)
    I’ve been poor, as a member of a very large family and in student days, and I’ve been well-off since, but I’ve never had a problem buying the ingredients for soup and bread, which are the staples of our diet. So the “class marker” thing doesn’t speak to me. Greens don’t have to be arugula (dandelion is delicious, and free!) and fruit doesn’t have to be kiwi. Your coaching and farming ideas are the best, imo. You can indeed make a lot with a little, and churches should embrace that ethic! On a tiny level, our church members maintain a garden behind the sanctuary, and each Sunday during the growing season, we have a “bounty table” where people can take fresh-grown food, donating if they can, or contribute from their own gardens. Donations and excess food go to a local food bank. But notice how ideology can sour even that (as you say Puritanism did.) Ignore the heresy of the NJ nuns to appreciate their good work? Perhaps, but it’s there, and they would not separate the two.
    Nationally, a large and perhaps intractable problem. Individually, easy to work with to be healthier and more communal! Finally, I can’t resist a mild Clemenceau dig in return. He also said, “All that I know, I learned after I was thirty.”

    • http://pegobry.tumblr.com/ Pascal-Emmanuel Gobry

      Thanks.

  • Mike

    I see what you’re saying here or trying to say but honestly a good food culture is not the starting point i don’t think. Unless you stabilize the family by stabilizing moms and dads staying together you’re not going to get far by promoting things that work well/seem like great ideas for yuppies like you and me when what’s missing on the other side of town is dad, who was kicked out by the mom for being too lazy or whatever. Italian and french food is a by product of its culture which is in the main traditional. Show me a traditional culture and stable culture and i’ll show you good food.

    • http://pegobry.tumblr.com/ Pascal-Emmanuel Gobry

      Eh. In 1935 America had stable marriages and crappy food. I mean, I agree that what you’re describing is a big problem, but with those kinds of misgivings we’ll never get started on anything.

      • Mike

        I agree i guess i’ve just seen quite a few of these kinds of initiatives turn into self-congratulatory “distractions” for well to do yuppies, their chocolate labs, 2.3 kids and sleek new cars. Too often they’re also presented as some sort of panacea a replacement for crappy food for food for the soul from a stable family and community. I don’t think that children in poor areas need rich people coming in to tell them that mom’s coke and chips and taco bell are sinister, and you did acknowledge this risk of a sneering attitude towards “those” people who eat mcdonalds or kfc. Food is still i think a byproduct not a starting point: everyone would rather have mom and dad at home in the evening eating junk food than have mom and new boyfriend snacking on organic hummus and olives.

        • http://pegobry.tumblr.com/ Pascal-Emmanuel Gobry

          Fair points. I agree the danger you’re describing is real.

  • http://outsidetheautisticasylum.blogspot.com/ Theodore Seeber

    I belong to my cousin’s CSA. Not only do we not buy vegetables from the supermarket in summer, we get so much delivered that we’d be stupid to eat out in summer.

    And in the Pacific Northwest, we have a tradition of fusion cooking. French trappers, British traders, Chinook Trading Nation tribes, and even a pre-WWII influx of Japanese created a cuisine that is uniquely Cascadian.

    • http://pegobry.tumblr.com/ Pascal-Emmanuel Gobry

      Great stuff, thanks.

      • http://outsidetheautisticasylum.blogspot.com/ Theodore Seeber

        You haven’t lived until you’ve tasted cedar plank wood fire grilled teriyaki salmon! And of course if you have Yakima relatives and/or friends, you can get it for the cost of gas for the boat motor at the right time of year.

  • BTP

    I’m in total agreement. Isn’t it interesting how so many great dishes were the food poor people made from whatever? Take a cheap cut of meat, brown it up, cook it for a long time with other cheap stuff, and: magic!

    I also agree that this movement has become a class marker. Most unfortunate. And, indeed, God bless Jamie Oliver.

    • http://pegobry.tumblr.com/ Pascal-Emmanuel Gobry

      Yep. Thank you for your comment.

  • BTP

    Oh, and James Lileks makes the main observation in amazing pictures.

    http://www.lileks.com/institute/gallery/

    Ghastly stuff, really.


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