On my last morning in Mandalay, Burma (Myanmar), my rickshaw driver pedaled me across town and to the river, where, at around 6am, I would embark on a 12-hour boat ride down the Irrawaddy River to Pagan (Bagan). I was surprised when he began an impromptu discussion of politics – a topic publicly forbidden in this military dictatorship. He told me of his disgust for the generals in charge, who he called ‘fake’ Buddhists, and his respect for Aung Sun Suu Kyi. Then he... Read more