Assisi

Assisi continues to be one of my favorite cities in the world. Medieval castle ruins, winding streets, friendly shopkeepers, and, of course, the spirit of St. Francis. The Giotto fresco cycle of Francis’s life is breathtaking. Praying in the crypt below the lower basilica is a deeply spiritual experience. Climbing la Rocca Maggiore affords a fantastic view of the city.

But I must say that my most compelling memory of Assisi, and it happened again today, is the smell of wood smoke coming from chimneys in town. It is unmistakable and unforgettable.

This trip (I suppose it’s my third or fourth to Assisi), I read Jon Sweeney’s updated version of Paul Sabatier’s classic biography of Francis. I’ve read several bios of Francis, and this is the best yet. It’s been spurned by many Franciscans because it’s written by a Protestant and because it claims that Francis was a forerunner of the Protestant Reformation. He also makes an interesting claim that when Francis asked for and received the blessing of Pope Innocent III for his band of brothers, he made a mistake — by doing so, he became a part of the church, he was domesticated and used politically by Innocent, and he could no longer provide a valid critique of the church.

As always, the best meal in Italy is to be had at La Stalla — the restaraunt in the barn up the hill from Assisi. Rustic bread grilled on an open fire and rubbed with garlic and olive oil, polenta spread on a board, sausages grilled on the same fire, and vino rosso della casa. Jim and I shared a table with two local Italian couples, one of which I struggled to communicate with. A true Umbrian experience.