I arrived in Nevers tired, hot and dusty after a discouraging day. My arrival there was a little miracle in itself, but once I got settled I came down to dinner, and in a moment a very nice lady came and sat next to me and said in the strongest Southern US accent, “Well, hah there! My name is Peggy Sue and the sisters said ah should sit here because ah speak English.”
It turned out that Peggy Sue was from Alabama and was a convert from the Baptist faith because she had experienced a vision of St Bernadette. Ever since she spent a month in the summer, “Spending tahm with Bernadette ‘n’ practisin’ mah Frayinch.” She had the keys to the whole place, took me on the grand tour and told me the whole story of Bernadette’s life, death, burial and exhumation. “Now ah know about these things because Daddy back in Alabama is a funeral director…” It turns out that Bernadette’s incorruptibility is just about the best attested miracle around.
The next morning after breakfast I got my backpack and was about to head down the road to my next stop…the ancient basilica of St Mary Magdalene at Vezelay. Before I left Peggy Sue hurried out and said, “Before you leave you must spend a few moments with Bernadette.” So I went into the chapel and knelt before the glass casket where her incorrupt body in on display.
As I shrugged on my backpack Peggy Sue smiled and said, “Well, how was it?” I told here about the fragrance and she beamed that sort of Holy Ghost grin that holy people have, “You’ve experienced the odor of sanctity!” she said. “That’s a special blessing from Bernadette!”
Well, there it is. True story. Make of it what you will.